Back to Japan: My March 2025 Travel Guide (on a Budget, With Friends, and a Little Gay Chaos)

✈️ Why Japan (Again)?

I’d been itching to go back to Japan since the moment I left in fall 2019 — pre-pandemic, pre-chaos, pre-global shutdown. My original plan was to return in 2022 with my then-boyfriend, but Japan had other ideas. They extended their tourist restrictions, so we pivoted and went to Spain instead. The relationship didn’t survive the trip (I mean... Granada was cute, but some journeys just aren’t meant to be round-trip).

Fast forward to 2025: Japan’s borders are open, the sakura are blooming, and I’ve got an amazing group of friends ready for the ride. This trip felt like a do-over in the best way — new energy, new memories, and way fewer emotional breakdowns in foreign Airbnbs (growth!).

I wrote a bit more about the headspace I was in and how this trip came together over here, but long story short: this wasn’t just a vacation — it was a personal reset. And Japan delivered.

💸 Budget Breakdown: Is Japan Actually Affordable?

Short answer: yes — especially when you're rolling three deep. Splitting costs makes a huge difference, particularly with accommodations, which tend to be the biggest expense after airfare. Here's what my wallet went through:

✈️ Flight

• Des Moines to Haneda: $1,465.91
• Definitely more expensive than my 2019 trip, but this time I had a shorter travel time and no soul-crushing layovers, which felt worth it.

🏨 Accommodations (Split 3 Ways)

• Yamate Rest House, Shinjuku – $71.91 for 1 night
• A crash pad, literally. We needed a spot to sleep before hopping on the Shinkansen to Kyoto the next morning. Nothing fancy, but did the job.
• ANA Crowne Plaza, Kyoto – $462.85 for 4 nights
• A little bougie, a little dated, but right across from Nijo Castle. The view, the breakfast, and the big fluffy robes? Chef’s kiss.
• Tobu Hotel Levant, Sumida City, Tokyo – $1112.31 for 5 nights
• This one felt luxe. We had a killer view of Tokyo Tower and easy access to the metro. Would stay again, especially with friends to split the cost.

💵 Spending Money

• Cash exchanged: $1,000
• Credit card (no foreign transaction fees): a little over $500
• Most of this went toward food, Shinkansen tickets (Tokyo → Kyoto → Osaka → Kyoto → Tokyo), and merch at Universal Studios. Also... Don Quixote. Always Don Quixote.

I had about 50,000 yen left on our last day, so naturally, I blew it on a sleek pair of JVC Nearphones (open-ear earbuds = game changer). I also fell in love with GU — Japan’s affordable, stylish cousin to Uniqlo — and walked out with some seriously cute clothes.

💳 Transit & Misc.

• Shinkansen rides: Included in card spend
• Cabs in Kyoto: Paid with cash
• Suica/IC card: Loaded about 7,000 yen
• Pro tip: keep your IC card loaded; it's accepted basically everywhere, from trains to vending machines to convenience stores.

TL;DR: Traveling with friends = cost-effective and way more fun. Between shared hotel rooms, smart use of credit cards, and resisting (some) impulse buys, this trip felt way more financially manageable than my last go-around — and honestly, I enjoyed it even more.

🧳 Packing for Japan in March (a.k.a. How I Fit My Life in a Backpack)

Packing for Japan in March is a game of layers — it’s technically spring, but you’ll still get chilly mornings, sudden rain, and that random sunny afternoon that makes you regret your jacket. I packed light (for me), and honestly? I nailed it.

Here’s what made the cut:

👖 Clothes:

• 2 pairs of pants (including the one I wore on the plane)
• 1 pair of shorts
• 1 pair of cut-off sweatpants (perfect for sleeping or lounging around the hotel)
• 2 oxford shirts
• 1 sweater
• 1 hoodie
• 1 denim jacket
• 1 trench-style raincoat (thank god for this — March will try to rain on you)
• 4 T-shirts
• 1 sleeveless tank for sleeping
• Enough socks and underwear (duh)

👟 Shoes:

• 2 pairs total: one for walking, one for flexing

(The walking shoes saw the most action — Tokyo will have you hitting 20k steps without realizing.)

All of that fit in my carry-on travel backpack like a puzzle box. Minimal, functional, and with just enough room for fashion moments when needed.

🧴 Extra Bag Strategy:

I also checked a bigger luggage bag — basically just a vessel for:

• My second pair of shoes
• Skincare essentials (aka potions and lotions)
• All the stuff I knew I’d buy: clothes from GU, too many sheet masks, random souvenirs, and impulse Don Quixote finds

Checking a bag was free (shoutout to my airline), so it was 100% worth it. Highly recommend this move if you’re planning to shop or just want to skip the whole "sitting on your suitcase trying to make it zip" experience before flying home.

🧺 Laundry Reality Check:

Even with my minimal capsule wardrobe magic, I did end up doing laundry — or rather, having it done for me. At the ANA Crowne Plaza in Kyoto, I sent out everything I’d worn during the first 4 days (including travel day), and it cost about $25 total. Pricey? A little. Worth it? Absolutely. It meant I could rotate clean clothes without overpacking or smelling like a suitcase by day five.

🌸 Extras: Onsens, Nichome Nights & Gay Tokyo Adventures

We packed in a lot of sightseeing while we were in Kyoto — temples, shrines, gardens, the whole vibe. We didn’t hit everything (which just means I need to go back, right?), but one core memory: we went to an onsen. And… yeah. Let’s just say it was an experience. I’ll spare the full play-by-play, but imagine being fully naked with your friends while trying to remember which bath is hot and which one might actually boil you alive. 10/10 awkward. 8/10 relaxing once you surrender to the moment.

My friend Sam loved Kyoto — the history, the pace, the vibe. Me? I’m a Tokyo boy at heart. There's something about that city’s constant movement and low-key chaos that just clicks. Plus, getting around is absurdly easy. As long as you know where you want to go, Google Maps will handle the train lines, transfers, and even tell you which platform to stand on. Magical.

And speaking of Tokyo… let’s talk Nichome.

We ended up in Shinjuku Nichome most nights — it’s Tokyo’s gay district, and honestly, it’s iconic. Our favorite spots were:

• 🦅 Eagle Tokyo & Eagle Tokyo Blue – Think: tiny spaces packed with leather, muscle, tourists, locals, and the occasional inexplicable mascot. We watched RuPaul’s Drag Race at Eagle Blue one night and did karaoke another — highly recommend both if you enjoy belting out pop hits with strangers while tipsy on umeshu.
• 🐺 The Beast – Peak chaotic fun. Go-go boys. Neon lights. That one moment where you're suddenly besties with someone from Berlin.
• 🧖‍♂️ 24 Kaikan – We went for the plot. Stayed for the... nevermind. Let’s just say curiosity was satisfied. (Pro tip: go with friends you can laugh about it with.)

If you’re queer and planning a trip, don’t sleep on Nichome. It’s welcoming, wild, and full of surprises — just like Tokyo itself.

🛬 Final Thoughts

This trip was everything I hoped for — a mix of old favorites and new memories, quiet moments in shrines and chaotic nights in Nichome, sensible budgeting and impulsive skincare shopping. Traveling with friends made it more affordable and more fun, and going in March gave us a taste of early spring without the full-on sakura crowds. Japan still hits. And if you’re thinking about going (or going back), I hope this guide helps you pack smarter, spend wiser, and leave room for a little adventure — and maybe a karaoke night or two. 🌸✨